In 2013, we did the "Go-Cha La" trek successfully. By
then, we were looking for another programme. NEBC came into scope.
But, we did
not find much useful information on the route "Post-Mountain Tsunami" in
Uttarakhand. Notes were maximum of pre 2013 with known route.
Though,
we had an incomplete trek diary of this route in a Bengali travel magazine.
:Written by Tamal Ghosh:
We
did NEBC successfully as per our plan in 2014 with the un-known route.
Thought to share these
information in such a way so as to enable potential trekkers to this beautiful
and strenuous route.
*Disclaimer: Please do NOT expect any romanticism or comparative literature kind of thing from this article. It is a documentation of facts, figures and personal experience which we encountered during our trek.*
Our Team: Myself (Santanu
Bhattacharya), Dipankar Roy, Tarak Chatterjee, Sabyasachi Basu. All are from Kolkata (W.B.)
Short introduction of us (Fantastic 4, we called it
ourselves) –
- Tarak Chatterjee – Age 34, from Krishnanagar (W.B.), School Teacher, Married
- Dipankar Roy – Age 42, from Machlandpur (W.B.), Serviceman in Private Sector, Married
- Sabyasachi Basu – Age 34, from Kolkata (W.B.), Serviceman in Private Sector, Bachelor
- Santanu Bhattacharya (myself) – Age 35, from Kolkata (W.B.), Serviceman in Private Sector, Bachelor
Itinerary: Kolkata – Munsiyari – Chilimdhar- Lilam- Man/Nayan
Singh Top- Bawaldhar – Bughdiyar - Nahar Devi – Rilkot - Barfu – Ghanghar –
Base Camp and Return……………………
Trek facts: This route was more
or less considered to be the moderate graded prior to 2013 flood (or, I can say
“Himalayan Tsunami”) in Uttarakhand. But, since then, it is
proved to be the most strenuous and somewhere dangerous altogether.
Few
stretches are really much longer than earlier periods. The way from Ghanghar to Base Camp was notorious,
in 3 places particularly, through continuous swept out by major landslides which
has now become considered as rock-fall zones.
Trekking
Distance to cover:
110 Kilometres. *Approximate.
Trek Budget: We had a tight budget. Guide + Porter (from Munshiyari to Munshiyari) – Rs. 9,000/- per head (Nine Thousands Only). Total Rs.
36,000/- as Trekking Expenses. * This does NOT include anything other*
Guide: Mohan Singh
(Jatuli village, Bageshwar District, Garhwal Region, Uttarakhand).
Contact: +91-94583 55812
Mohan
is around 25-26 years of age. He is educated enough for a guide. He is a Graduate and he served in Delhi based company for
2 years. But, as his father is himself is a good guide, Mohan was decided to take Guiding
trekkers as a profession. He is a smart, young, soft-talking and caring person.
During the entire trek, he looked after us, especially to Sabyasachi (mota-bhai). J
One of our team members, Tarak Chatterjee, did his first trek to Sundardunga Valley, with Mohan’s father as a guide. Hence, Tarak did the entire set-up this time
in terms of fixing guide for our trip. He was in a constant tele-phonic touch
with Mohan, right from Kolkata.
Porter: A couple, locally hired from Munshiyari.
=======================================================
:: Journey ::
Kolkata to
Lucknow – by Train
In a very hot and humid evening in early October,
2014, we
(Fantastic 4) have started our journey from Kolkata. Our plan was to Nanda
Devi East Base Camp this year. We did the railway reservation in Amritsar mail from Howrah to Lukhnow Junction.
And, then we did the further train journey from Lukhnow Ayeshbagh Station to Pilvit.
*At Lucknow, we did a visit to “Tunday Kababi”, internationally famous
for “Galauti Kabab”. It was just
Awesome!*
We reached Pilvit
in admist early morning around 4 AM. We took a man-pulled rickshaw (Fare – Rs.
20/- each) from station upto the main road that connects Tanakpur. We boarded a mini-taxi (shared basis) which charged us
Rs.100/- per head.
*Note: I would like to
mention emphatically that these shared mini-taxis are “NOT” very good with
passengers. They used to switch passengers to another taxi in anywhere middle
of the road. And, they (2nd driver) suddenly asking for more charge
than what decided with the first driver while boarding from Pilvit. We faced this and would like to
inform the same to potential travellers.
Pilvit to Tanakpur
took us around 1 and 45 minutes. There is a Govt. Bus Stand over there. But the
situation was something peculiar, though. We boarded the bus from the stand
towards Pithoragarh. Road and
journey, both went smooth.
*Note: At Tanakpur, in front of the Govt. Bus Stand, there were several
private curs who asked to go with them on shared/complete booking basis. Once
you get with them, you would find that time is passing and they do not even
bother to start until they have their car filled. Same situation is for all
cars. Most of the cars is having only 2-3 seats of passengers and rest are
remaining vacant. Drivers are fighting to catch new passengers. Ultimately,
your time will be at stake. Do not go for private cars, if you have real
urgency.
Go with the Govt. Bus. Cheap, Time bounded and Comfortable as well.
Tanakpur to
Pithoragarh (by Bus) – 3 hours almost (2 breaks in between)
We reached Pithoragarh
around 12 past noon. We were in hope to get a shared taxi from there upto Munshiyari. It is actually available in
morning hours. But we were already pretty late for that. And, no more Bus
service was available at that moment until next morning. Fortunately, we got a
jeep which was returning to “Thal”.
The driver was good enough to pick us up on an average fare. We got to know
that we might get some availability from Thal
to Munshiyari. It was started
raining already.
Pithoragarh to
Thal (by shared Jeep) – 3 hours, around
Once we reached Thal, it was dark in evening and raining was in full. We just kept our fingers crossed to get
another/last availability towards Munshiyari.
But, we did not find any car at that moment. And, we were in no mood to stay
(e.g. waste) a night at Thal. So, we
were eagerly asking our existing driver to find an option, if any. Our driver
was good enough. Till that point, this was proved to be the first good
experience with driver. Fortunately, he managed one of his near and dear once
to help us to reach Munshiyari at
the same day. It was dark already and fare was decided accordingly. We agreed
and started.
And, this proved to be the BEST decision. Because,
son after rain stopped and, on the way near to Kalimuni Top, we got the splendid view of Majestic Pancchulli
ranges piping in a moon sky. It was an absolute
pleasure to see the Mt. Pancchulli
in such a bloom at dark night.
We reached Munshiyari around 20:00 hrs.
Thal to
Munshiyari (by Private Car : Maruti Omni Van) – 3 – 3.30 hours, around.
*We travelled into
darkness within heavy rainfall for an odd 30-40 minutes. In daylight, it could
be taking a little bit lesser time.
Accomodation
at Munshiyari::
From Kolkata, one of our trek member (Tarak Chatterjee) had a discussion with
one of the reputed lodge owner at Munshiyari.
It’s well known “Pandey Lodge”. As
it was a season time and we had a tight budget, we’re advised to reach to Munshiyari and he could provide a
budget room for us. We were having a constant tele-phonic contact with him (Mr. Pandey), in intervals, through-out
our journey. Though, while we were on the move from Thal to Munshiyari, we
were informed that NO room was
available for us at Pandey Lodge and
Mr. Pandey did some other
arrangement for us in “Devbhumi Lodge” just beside the “chowk” at Munshiyari Bus Stand.
We reached Munshiyari and board the room at Devbhumi Lodge. It was cost us Rs. 600/- per day. One room was
allotted to us and it was seemed to be enough for us, both in terms of space
and budget.
*Note: I would recommend “Devbhumi Lodge” to all budget
trekkers.
Location: Just in front of the Munshiyari Bus Stand (Chowk). Good
quality food and accommodation at budget rate. The owner himself and his wife
run the lodge along-with the little kitchen and dining space at the ground
floor. We were having a “Meal” of only Rs. 50/- per head. And, it remains open
beyond 21:00-22:00 hours at night. Veg and Non-veg both are available.*
1st
Morning at Munshiyari:: Altitude – 7513 Feet / 2290 Meter
Actually, we were decided to start our trek from
this day, after an earlier discussion with our Guide. But, unfortunately our
Guide did not make to reach on this day to Munshiyari
due to some unavoidable reason. Hence, we had to take rest day (or, I would say
Acclimatization Day). Instead, of resting we decided to stroll around Munshiyari and most importantly did the
necessary “Paper
work” for permission from DMO.
*Information: Munshiyari is situated at the western part of Mt. Panchchulli. And, hence, one should
not be expecting Sun rise. Rather, you would be mesmerized by the Sun-set instead, if you are very very
lucky. We were NOT.
We see the morning view of Mt. Panchchulli under crystal
clear sky!! It was superb!!
Soon after it was dark and clouds are hopping-in.
We (4) went to Pandey Lodge to meet Mr. Pandey so as to seek advice on necessary course to get the permission from DMO. But, he said that till that point no permits were required to take. We might proceed without. Honestly, this did not satisfy us.
Paper-work::
We seek our lodge owner “Mr. Surinder” and he gave us the
correct way. He, himself, writes down the application for us (we need to put
our signature and photos pasted onto the hand written Application Form). We
attached our “Identity
Proofs”.
And, then we made a xerox of 4 copies of the entire application.
We went to DMO (District Magistrate Office), just 2
minutes’ walk from the Devbhumi Lodge.
DM (District
Magistrate / Tahashildar) was not present as he was on leave. His
deputy was there. He helped us. We made 4 copies stamped. DMO took one of the copies.
Then we went into the ITBP Camp (Indo-Tibetian Border Police) which is a 15-20 minutes
walking from the Munshiyari Chowk.
It was a nice viewing point of Mt.
Panchchulli altogether. We deposited another copy to the camp and got
registered our names with their log-book. They would be informing their advance
petrol parties through radio-wireless.
Strolling
around Munshiyari::
All these permission paperwork took us an odd 3-4
hours. By that time, sky got clear enough and we decided to took our lunch at
lodge and then going-out to try our luck with Mt. Panchchulli in evening sun. But, we were not lucky though.
Unfortunately, sky got darker enough again by then
and we got back to our lodge. Meantime, our guide (Mohan) had already informed us
that he started from Bageshwar and
would be reaching Munshiyari by late
afternoon. Once we reached our lodge, it was raining already. We were little
bit worried that neither our guide had arrived nor there was any arrangement for
our porters and all materials needed.
Mohan
arrived around 3:30 PM. He was smart enough to arrange all the things that we
might need during our trek. He arranged for 2 porters (Kids, I say. Name of one
of them, was Chanchal), 3 mules and
all other necessary ration, tent, fuel etc.
=========================================================
Trek Day 1::
We woke up early in the morning. Get ready quickly.
To start with, one need to get a car hired from Munshiyari upto the the place named “Chilimdhar”. It was a 1 hour approximate ride.
Route - Altitude - Time taken: Chilimdhar – Lilam (6069 Feet /
1850 Meter - 2 Hours) – Man/Nayan Singh Top (8500 Feet / 2600 Meter – 4 Hours)
– Bawaldhar (8000 Feet / 2438 Meter – 3 Hours)
Walking distance: Total 9 Hours covering 14 KMs * Approximate figures*
Chilimdhar is the point one need to leave the facilities of
civilised world and to start the walking from, going to heaven.
Through that way, after around half a mile walk, the pedestrian way/route have started uprising towards Lilam village.
Man/Nayan Singh Top is a notorious one to cross. It was steep and took us almost 4 and a half hours. Most of all, the top cannot be seen from beneath. And, it was dark clouds all over and soon started raining. We did not stop and continued our ascent. Once we reached the top, rain stopped. There was a tiny temple and bells (Ghonta) at the top of it. It was already over past 4:30 PM and we had a more few stretches to make towards our camp site at “Bawaldhar”. We were really a bit tired by then. There was a “dhaba” where we took a bit of rest and a cup of tea. It was going to dark soon due to clouds.
It was too tiring for the 1st day. Tea
were served soon followed by hot Khichdi and Papad as dinner. We went onto our
sleeping bags and called it a day at around 9:00 – 9:30 PM.
=========================================================
Trek Day 2::
Sunny morning welcomes us at Bawaldhar Camp site. It is a jungle covered area and sun comes
little late as it is covered by surrounding peaks as well. There is actually 3
shepherd dhabas in distance within the “Rargadi”
Bridge and Man/Nayan Singh Top. We
camped last night beside the 2nd dhaba.
Route - Altitude - Time taken: Bawaldhar - Rargadi Bridge (1
Hour) – Bogudiyar (8200 Feet / 2499 Meter – 3 Hours) – Nahar Devi (8500 Feet /
2600 Meter – 3 and half Hours)
Walking distance: Total 8 Hours covering 9 KMs * Approximate figures*
Our today’s target is to reach “Nahar Devi” crossing Rargadi Suspension Bridge and Bogudiyar. It would be a long walk.
We got ready soon to leave our camp at Bawaldhar. We reached before Rargadi bridge (Jhula) around 9:30 AM. Gouri-Ganga” can be visible and will be aside upto the entire journey.
*Note: Bogudiyar could be a “nice” camp site, enroute.*
*Note: Just after Bodgudiyar we cross a stream coming from the Namic glacier from where there is an interesting trek to “Song” which is at the base of the “Pindari” glacier trek, which supposedly goes only up to an altitute of 4700mtrs*
There was a boulder zone, full of big boulders.
This needs some sort of rock climbing. This covered the actual man made route.
We need to cross those boulders to re-join the normal way. Again, that
climbing/crawling started. Tarak Chatterjee
did a fine job to make the way first. He is the fittest amongst us. We just
followed him. After crossing that boulder zone, a long staircase was awaited
for us upto Nahar Devi Camp site. By
then, clouds were there and ready to wet us again.
We reached Nahar
Devi in late afternoon. It was a small peak (Tila, I’d say) with a couple
of “dhabas”. Once can stay onto any of those dhaba by spending Rs.50/- per bed.
We pitched our tent on the top of the Naha
Devi site. It was cloudy and soon started windy.
We had arranged to make a “Masala Muri” with chilli
and onion chops. Enjoying with a glass of hot coffee. Astonishingly, wind was
getting much forceful. Dinner served – Rice, Egg Curry. We went onto our
sleeping bags as it was a very long day for us. We called it a day.
We could not make a single wink
through-out the night as the evening wind had turned into almost “Roaring
Storm” by then. It took our kitchen tent away from it’s place at night. We kept
checking our tent’s anchors through-out the night.
=============================================================
Trek Day 3::
Morning welcomed us with bright Sunlight. We took a
quick look for any damage by last night’s storm. Thankfully, only the kitchen
tent was thrown away. Recovery was done. We did our breakfast. Get ready to
move on. Our today’s target was to reach “Rilkot”
which has an ITBP camp. Long walk.
Route - Altitude - Time taken: Nahar Devi site - Mapang (3 Hours) – Rilkot (10168 Feet / 3099 Meter – 3 Hours
Walking distance: Total 6 Hours covering 9 KMs * Approximate figures*
Rock-fall zone over all. After crossing
that rock-fall area, the route would turned to be closer to normal again.
You need to cross that rock-fall zone cautiously and as
fast as you can, keeping an eye onto the upper part for upcoming loose
boulders. One hit and you will be going to Gouri
ganga directly.! It was scary.
We did as fast as we could and covered that area.
Then “road” was pretty straight forward, across boulders, rocks, mud etc. As
usual.
There was a place where a water-fall was there dropping straight onto the road. There was not any shed. You should have an Umbrella/Raincoat/Polythene shit for this and RUN. Otherwise………!!
There was a place where a water-fall was there dropping straight onto the road. There was not any shed. You should have an Umbrella/Raincoat/Polythene shit for this and RUN. Otherwise………!!
Every day starts with a bright sunlight and ends with raining. Today was no more exceptional. Addition was, the bone chilling wind which sometimes resembling like stormy. This wind started to catch us since Nahar Devi and got continued till the Base Camp.
There was a big Wind-Turbine which can be visible far from the route.
Descending started towards the base of the river again. It’s a complete boulder
zone and one can be lost within. There was no route marking. We had to check
for earlier footprints/walking marks on mud/sand of the riverbase. Crossing
them, you could reach to the ITBP
camp. It was heavy raining and we took shelter onto the ITBP camp. Our guide and porters went a few meters further to pitch
the tent within the boundary of the ITBP
Camp.
ITBP camp was empty. Only the radio officer was there
at that moment. He welcomed us.
Here is the place one could connect to his/her home through BSNL Land-line phone via WLL. This charged us Rs. 2/- per minute. We took the opportunity and called our home. It was refreshing to talk with family staying far from them. We were relaxed. We also take the opportunity to re-charge our Camera batteries/Cell Phones, free of cost.
*The room was having a
big and ravishing picture of Bollywood actress “Pretty Zinta”. The soldiers were big fan of her.……… Interesting!!*
We again did checked our permit papers with the
radio officer and get logged our names. After spending a few hours, we headed
to our tent. Rain was stopped. This was
the first time, we felt sound temperature drops. It was really cold. Hot Coffee
and Noodles turned us back into condition. ZABARDAST
ADDA/GAPPE was in full bloom. Around 8 PM, hot Khichdi, Papad, Omelettes
were served. Those were vanished in no time.
=======================================================
Trek Day 4::
As usual, warm morning sunlight greeted us. Our
today’s destination was Ghanghar.
Almost 8 hours of walking.
Route - Altitude - Time taken: Rilkot - Barfu (3 and half Hours) – Ghanghar (3 Hours) – Total 15 Kms (Long Walk)
Walking distance: Total 7 Hours covering 15 KMs * Approximate figures*
We started around 8 AM.
The
route was to make a short hike to the road upside. This road making was under
progress. Civil construction equipments were everywhere. This almosy flat road
stretches a few kilometres. Easy going trail. This road is leading towards
directly to Milam.
One should left this road in middle somewhere enroute Ghanghar.
One should left this road in middle somewhere enroute Ghanghar.
We started moving on towards Ghanghar. It was a pretty flat walking through the valley. But some places it was wet and muddy. Need to take care
of your shoes and shocks. It was the “mules
downloads” which causes this mud. Worst smelling. But you have to cross over onto those. No other
way round. After that, the ground gets more even with dry-grass springing
everywhere.
It was easy walking but with extreme
bone chilling wind. Keep walking
could make your body warmer, otherwise, it might cause shivering starts in no
time. We, all four, had developed a constant cold and cough for next few days,
due to this jet stream wind.
Long stretch from Barfu to Ghanghar with
easy walking. Took us 3 and a half hours around.
One issue was that jet stream wind. As our makeshift night
stay in that “Panchayat” house was good enough as far as rocky walls are
concerned. But there was no Doors fitted at the gate of the room. Hence, we had
covered the door with one of our polythene shit and anchored it with heavy
stones as much as we can.
Hope that it will stay and protect us from that
wind. Good night!
=======================================================
Trek Day 5::
Morning Sunlight brings hope for a good day ahead.
The wind did not last longer at night and polythene shit was in shape whole
night.
Route - Altitude - Time taken: Ghanghar – Nanda Devi East Base Camp (4 Hours)
Walking distance: Total 4 Hours covering 7 KMs * Approximate figures*
We did the first thing to take a look at the “Dome”
of Mt. Nanda
Devi. Just Beautiful!! It was difficult to stop taking pictures.
Ghanghar is situated at an elevation of junction of Gouri-Ganga river and Pacchu Nala (coming out from Pacchu Glacier). You can see the convergence
of both the rivers and stream. Opposite of Pacchu
Nala, there is an ITBP camp at
far distance. And Mt. Trishuli was
pipping over far behind from an unknown peak up above the junction portion of
two rivers. It was brilliant to watch.
We were in hurry to start early to reach the Base Camp today. But, while doing our breakfast, our guide Mohan informed us that mules had escaped last night. One Porter were gone down to search and brought those back. We did not have any choice rather to wait. It took a long time once that porter reached with mules. Guide advised us to go-ahead upto the 1st rock fall area and wait. Meantime, he would get those mules ready and started to join us on the way.
The path from Ghanghar to Base Camp is
NASTY in 3 areas. Those were just
washed-out by continuous landslides and became rock fall zones. Not a single
place was there to get your foot comfortably placed within those zones. And,
looking down would be more dangerous for those who has a vertigo issue. It was
a real nasty business.
Nanda Devi came more closure to us as we moved on. At the 1st
landslide area, Tarak Chatterjee
took the initiative to cross first and we were to follow. It was scary but we
did it in style.
For the 2nd Landslide zone, I, myself, took the initiative to be
path-finder. And, we managed that too.
The last one (3rd Landslide) looked much
nastier than earlier two. Before Myself
or Tarak took the initiative, Mohan had appeared and he took the
responsibility now. Myself, Tarak and Dipankar Da made it in fashion. But Sabyasachi (mota-bhai) got panicked in middle of the 3rd
zone. It was Mohan again who quickly
took the charge and did the recovery. Sabyasachi
joined us and we felt relieved.
After a few more meters, we reached on a tiny
valley where we took a much needed rest in order to get our breath back. It was
very strenuous to get crossed those 3 landslide zones. From there, a few more
stretches would lead you to the Base
Camp.
It’s a Grand site, I must admit. Mt. Nanda Devi is in full frame in
front of you now. No more barriers. You could touch the peak!!
We pitched our tents over here on a top of a hump.
We did our lunch. From Ghanghar, it
took us a 4 hour around to the base camp.
So, we decided earlier that we would be having our lunch over base camp.
It was good, enchanting and feeling successful, to
some extent, to see Mt. Nanda Devi
at a so close distance, after such a hard and strenuous trekking for last 4 and
a half days.
**Note: We did not imagine what would be waiting
for us in Return journey!! Will come later on this following the
journey.
In evening, we spent most of times to watch “Sparkling Sky”. It was not a full moon.
So, we were not lucky enough. But, the sky was extremely beautiful to watch in
dark. We almost identify all the Star Formations that we stood in school books.
“Saptarshi
Mandol”, “Kaal Purush”, and many more. Just brilliant!!
And, what I could say for Nanda Devi!!! It was absolute
outstanding to see it in full darkness. Can’t express the feelings in words!!
I did not have a DSLR camera. Hence,
tried to take a snap with my Rs. 5000/- Olympus point & shoot. Do not know
how much it’ll work.
Rest are same – dinner with Rice and Egg Curry
(usual). Called it a day around 8.30 PM. Surprisingly, wind was no more since
the sun sets through-out the entire night.
And, those mules escaped again at mid
of night!! Porters had to run to catch those again in next morning. These
fellows left us nowhere. Disgusting…L We did not even have a good night
sleep K.
======================================================
Trek Day 6::
The D-Day!
Our plan was to see the Sun-Rise, went back to Base Camp, Breakfast there, return back
to Ghanghar Camp, Lunch there and
then start return journey towards Barfu
for night halt.
We woke up very early, during darkness, around 3.30
AM in morning. Quickly got ready and moved towards the trekking summit point to
see the Sun-Rise over Mt. Nande Devi.
Slowly, there was a mixture of pink
and blue coloured circle created in upper hemisphere above us. Fantastic !!
It’s the Sun Rising moment. In Bengali,
it is called as “Brahawammo – Muhurto”
First ray of Sun started touching the walls of Nanda Devi.
We forgot to take pictures initially!!. Then, came
back to reality and we started taking pictures of this outstanding light show. Nanda Devi
was resembling like Gold-Mine. We
just took pictures as many as we can to capture the memories of this.!
Half an hour or more, it kept us mesmerized. Once all over, Nanda Devi was resembling like Silver-Mine, then!.
I took out our Indian National Flag, opened it and held with pride and joy! We all raised it as a symbol of our success, pride and Joy! Good Memories!
 |
| Photo courtesy: Tarak Chatterjee and Dipankar Roy |
 |
| Photo courtesy: Tarak Chatterjee |
On return, we again had to encounter those rock-fall landslide zones. Once we reached at Ghanghar, we quickly had our lunch. And, then headed towards Barfu. It was almost 12 past noon at that moment.
Soon, sky started to get cloudy. We reached Barfu within our expected time without
any more hassles. We pitched our tent. By that time, more clouds were approaching
and soon it started raining. We took our tiffin and dinner respectively and
called it a day.
=======================================================
Trek Day 7::
Morning did NOT
welcome with clear sky.
Rather it was Snowing
actually. Harsh Colder it was.
We were in dilemma that whether to move on or else. Soon we decided to move on
in conformity. We started and reached Rilkot
within snowing/raining.
It was much cold and we were almost wet with
already. Porters were not eager to move further as we scheduled to travel upto Nahar Devi, by anyhow. Porters started
making hush-hush for not moving. We (Fantastic 4) took the initiative again to
convince them and started heading towards Nahar
Devi within raining.
** Meantime, from Rilkot ITBP camp, we had been informed
by soldiers that a Super Cyclone / Storm crashed onto Vizag (Hyderabad), named
as “Hud Hud” which was moving
towards northern part of India and
suspected to hit there by next 24 hours. We just took chances again and had a
talk with our family over phone. The anxiety, coming from home through phone
receiver, touched us deeply.
The effect of Hud-Hud took the life of Mr.
Tathagata Jana (Trekker-Photographer from Kolkata) and other few
fellow trekkers in Nepal at Thorang-La Pass (comes under the Annapurna Sanctuary Trekking Route)
We, are just fond of his amazing
photography. May his soul rest in
peace**
We were much eager to descent more quickly as much
as we can, because we had a tight return schedule too. We started from Rilkot within heavy rain. We got wet
completely. And, the muddy areas were NASTY.
We sleeped several times. Stopped our fall into Gouri Ganga directly. We tried to hold
anything that we got to stop our fall from that deadly sleepy steps.
It was too scary!! And, dangerous
within heavy rain.
In midst of that, we had to cross a rock-fall
zone which made our way more objectively dangerous. Guide Mohan showed extreme confidence and
serenity to lead us through that way. Gouri
Ganga was flowing with ferociously with full of muddy water in full force.
It seemed really terrible. Because, one sleep in
our footsteps and we’d be going deep into the gorge directly.
We just
stopped looking down to river.
We concentrated on each of our steps.
We slipped several times but luckily without any injuries. Fortunate enough!
Once we saw Nahar
Devi in distance, we felt our confidence back. Though, it was still far
away. We reached Nahar Devi around 5
PM in evening. It was almost dark.
We did not pitch tent, rather we opted the dhaba to
night stay. We were completely wet-out. And, we change our lowers quickly. We were shivering in cold. Even, hot coffee could not
help much.
Lastly, we took a bottle of Liquor/Alcohol (RAM - McDowell), bought from that dhaba owner and
took a couple of sip of it. We felt much better
than earlier.
We were actually scared
of havingu been caught with Pneumonia.
It was full raining outside. We took our dinner
with Khichdi. And, went onto much needed sleep or rest I would say.
======================================================
Trek Day 8::
Morning came with much heavier
raining. As similar to
last day, porters were still arguing for not to move ahead within the heavy
rain.
But, We (Fantastic 4),
were absolutely determined to move and headed towards Bawaldhar. Long walk. So, after many times spent on arguing, we
forced the porters to get their mules ready to go.
Thanks
to the owner of that dhaba. He also took our side to force the porters to move.
Thanks to him.
We started, after breakfast, around 9.30 AM.
The same condition on today also. Heavy Raining, Sloppy route, foot slipped away –
everything. Along-with fear, frustration, tired body and soul –
everything. In between, we met a couple, coming from England. They were heading towards Milam. We wished each other Good Luck! J
Once we reached Bugudiyar, we had met a trekking
party from Kolkata. Cherishing !!!!
After lot of scary things, we could speak in our mother tongue – Bengali.
It was a much relief for all of us. We shared about the road conditions. That
trekking party were about to take the route of “Patta” to “Milam”. Heavy rainfall stuck
them to Bughdiyar for last couple of
days. We took our lunch in between and again started.
On ITBP camp we heard the good news that whether supposed to be clear
by today night. Hope came
back!
We continued our steps moving anyhow. Gouri Ganga looked real scary at Rargari Bridge area. We reached the
lower dhaba at Bawaldhar by 4:00 PM
in the evening. And took shelter.
RELIEF !!!
We never lost our nerves. We did make
our return journey within the nastiest whether condition from Barfu to
Bawaldhar.
We did it as we scheduled!
By evening, sky started to get clear and by 9.30 it
was completely clear again. We felt much accomplished. We took dinner a little
late. Once we called it day it was almost by past 10:00 PM at night.
*This jungle area of Bawaldhar site is crawling with wild animals. Bring a couple of good
Camp lights and put on those through-out the night. Owners of those dhaba did
the same by firing jungle woods, whole night.*
=====================================================
Trek Day 9::
Last day of our trekking. Morning welcomed us with
bright sunshine all over. We could see the snow on
the upper parts of the mountains which were empty earlier while we started our
trek since 7 days back.
Oh! What had we done during last
couple of days. It was all scary and deadliest to some extent. We were lucky
that nobody got any injury at all. Somehow, we escaped through the worst
weather conditions. Sometimes, feeling great too! Because, we were onto the
schedule as we decided much earlier. We did not have any time missed out by not
even the dangerous weather condition. Nothing stopped us.
We started a little late in morning. Today we had
to reach Chilimdhar, by crossing Man/Nayan Singh Top and Lilam, which we had come across.
 |
| Photo Courtesy: Tarak Chatterjee and Dipankar Roy |
We started ascending Bawaladhar staircases and reached at the top of Man/Nayan Singh Top. We spent few
minutes at the top. And, start the “Knee-breaking”
descent. Once we arrive at the foot of Man/Nayan
Singh Top, we felt tired badly. Just a few more stretches and led us to the
same home at Lilam where we first
visited on the Trek Day 1.
We stopped at the same home for lunch. That same
cute aby girl welcomed us with her cheerful and innocent smile. We took most of
the time with her. I took her into my arms.
Honestly, I would like to be the father of a
daughter someday, if I want to break my bachelor-ship. Currently, I am more than OK with.
We started again and headed towards Chilimdhar. In between, our guide Mohan made a phone contact to a car
driver who would be picking up from Chilimdhar.
Rest is unusual. Same set of route and then the
road which was under progress. We crossed the river again and then a short half
an hour hike led us to the top of Chilimdhar.
Car was waiting to get us back to the civilised
world again.
Boarded the car and we had reached Munshiyari again by 3:30 PM around. It
was still sunshine then.
Trekking concludes happily with success…………!!!!!!
We took a room at Pandey Lodge for Rs. 1200/- for a night. It was costlier for us but
we did not have a choice because all rest of the rooms/lodges were booked due
to Chief Minister’s visit to Munshiyari on the same day. By next
morning, we need to leave Munshiyari
towards Lalkuan Station for return
journey to Kolkata.
=====================================================
:: Return
Journey::
Munsyari(
2200-2300 mtrs) - Bhabha Muni Ashram (2700 mtrs) - Thal(800-900 mtrs) -
Bherinag (2100 mtrs) - Sheraghat (700mtrs) – Bhawali - Nainital (1800-1900mtrs)
We took the early morning shared jeep from Munshiyari bus stand towards Bhawali
– near to Nainital. The jeep carried
us through Thal – Almora
and dropped us at Bhawali
around 4:00 PM in evening. It was a 9-10 hours journey from Munshiyari to Bhawali. From Bhawali taxi
stand, we took an another shared jeep
upto Nainital. It took us a fare
45-50 minutes ride.
We reached one of the most “romantic” places in India. NAINITAL!
We took a room for Rs. 700/- in a Bengali Hotel on the Mall Road, just beside the lake. It was
evening and lightened hotels seemed great looking for eyes. We just dropped our
ruck-sacks into the room and start strolling around the mall road and the
market. It was beautiful to see the lights around.
Diwali/Dipavali/Kali Puja was coming nearby and people were eagerly shopping
for the same. We felt enchanted after all the hardship and dangers that we had
to get encountered with. A good night sleep followed.
Next morning, we again strolled around. Few
marketing done for self/family/friends.
*Nainital
is famous for its “Candlewax Merchandise”.
Took our lunch at the hotel dine. Bengali lunch, at last, after a tedious
9-10 days. And, booked a private car
from Nainital to Lalkuan Station. We board the return
train from Lalkuan for Kolkata.
Waiting eagerly again for next year to see my most favourite place on planet earth –
THE HIMALAYA!!
I always feel “Alive”
whenever I get close to Himalaya.
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